Hypothetically.. if you wanted to make a giant circuit board to handlee all the wiring in a car would it be possible? I mean a printed circuit board like a PC motherboard.. NOT somekind of board with wires running on it.. what are they called.. :bread boards" or something..?
Beau, why do they use printed circuit boards in computers rather than wires? That's the same reason I am wondering why they don't use printed circuits for car wiring…

And, I am just curiou how the concept of printed circuits scales up.. would it be feasible for wriing a car? Or would you it not have enough material to run enough electricity through it to make it work..
I know it would be tough to do this inside the engine bay.. but how about all the wiriing from the firewall back.. and don't think of just one board..

Or how about wiring in your house.. hypothetically.. would the concept of the circuit board work for home wiring? How would this work? How wide would a "band" of curcuit need to be to handle home wiring? What's the largest example of a circuit board?

Model 790.95301, had this range for 5 years, never had any problems with it. Cooked dinner this evening and shut it off when we were thru. About 5 minutes go by and the buzzer starts going off and there is an "F1" fault code on the display.
The bottom element in the oven is red hot, like during the self cleaning mode. We tried resetting the oven, even unplugged it for awhile but keep getting the fault code. Every time we plug it back in the element gets red hot again. Can anyone tell me what the "F1" code is for? I assume it is electronic, maybe a circuit board gone bad? Any help is appreciated.

Well..I waited 12 hrs FIRST IN LINE (3:00pm Thanksgiving day- to open 5am) in line at Circuit City for the 42" Sharp lcd. I was very unpleased with their service 1.) they didnt have reserve tickets for the TV's, just the laptops. 2) there customer service was very awful. Best Buy was across the street giving out hot coco & had a tv out for ppl to watch.. I was very disappoint when I realized I would have to run for my tv (first come first serve) even though I knew I would get one because I was first HOWEVER it changed when I ran to the electronic desks the kids working there were playing around when I am seriously trying to make a purchase giving me the run around when the item is limited and other ppl that didnt wait that 12hrs like did had the possibility of getting my TV!..SO I TOOK liberties in my own hand and grabbed their display box (NEW & SEALED)..they didnt have any flat karts so i dragged it to check out..luckly in line I made friends and we helped each other by getting items

I have two 12 v dc motors run off a car battery, continually charged by a car 50 amp alternator run by the 6.5 h.p. lawnmower engine. One motor driving each rear wheel. I am controlling with a "Futaba" transmitter and reciever through a 12-15 volt 50 amp electronic motor speed controller to the two motors. When I hooked it up for a first trial, it resulted in three problems. I'll list them in order of importance to me but anybody answering any of them will be GREATLY appreciately by me!
1. There is no reverse function
2. When I release the joystick on the transmitter and it springs back to center, the motor should stop right? It doesen't. It doesn't stop untill I push the lever all the way towards the opposite direction from which I want the motor to turn. Kinda like even if there was reverse, I wouldn't have enough joystick movement to reach it.
3. The motor speed controller has a "BEC" 3 v battery eliminator circuit. I still need to hook up my 4 cell battery pack to use it?. HELP!

My nephew has one of those electronics kits consisting of some electronic components and a project book. The book suggests circuits to create using the kit and makes some obvious observation such as "When you closed the switch, the current flowed, lighting the lamp."

One project consists of a battery, a switch, a lamp and a motor which drives an axle on the end of which can be placed a fan. The project instructions call for the circuit to be closed with the fan in place and with the motor without the fan. In the latter case, the lamp is dimmer than in the former. The book provides no explanation, so my nephew turned to me. I haven't got a clue.
I apologize for the confusingly phrased question. By "fan" I meant the fan blade assembly. The motor stayed connected in series with the lamp. The circuit is a DC circuit as in all (most?) such electronic kits.

The motor and fan were connected in series in this instance primarily as a demonstration of the effect described.

Thank you all for your explanations. The current drop explanation satisfied my nephew. I'm going to have to digest the EMF back force concept before I try explaining that one to him.

I have two 12 v dc motors run off a car battery, continually charged by a car 50 amp alternator run by the 6.5 h.p. lawnmower engine. One motor driving each rear wheel. I am controlling with a "Futaba" transmitter and reciever through a 12-15 volt 50 amp electronic motor speed controller to the two motors. When I hooked it up for a first trial, it resulted in three problems. I'll list them in order of importance to me but anybody answering any of them will be GREATLY appreciately by me!
1. There is no reverse function
2. When I release the joystick on the transmitter and it springs back to center, the motor should stop right? It doesen't. It doesn't stop untill I push the lever all the way towards the opposite direction from which I want the motor to turn. Kinda like even if there was reverse, I wouldn't have enough joystick movement to reach it.
3. The motor speed controller has a "BEC" 3 v battery eliminator circuit. I still need to hook up my 4 cell battery pack to use it?. HELP!

I have two 12 v dc motors run off a car battery, continually charged by a car 50 amp alternator run by the 6.5 h.p. lawnmower engine. One motor driving each rear wheel. I am controlling with a "Futaba" transmitter and reciever through a 12-15 volt 50 amp electronic motor speed controller to the two motors. When I hooked it up for a first trial, it resulted in three problems. I'll list them in order of importance to me but anybody answering any of them will be GREATLY appreciately by me!
1. There is no reverse function
2. When I release the joystick on the transmitter and it springs back to center, the motor should stop right? It doesen't. It doesn't stop untill I push the lever all the way towards the opposite direction from which I want the motor to turn. Kinda like even if there was reverse, I wouldn't have enough joystick movement to reach it.
3. The motor speed controller has a "BEC" 3 v battery eliminator circuit. I still need to hook up my 4 cell battery pack to use it?. HELP!

I have a 31" JVC television. It was given to me not working (single white line running horizontally across the screen). I took off the back and blew the dust off the circuitry and it started working for the most part. Every once in a while, the screen will compress to a solid line and a tap on the side fixes it.

I have discovered that this is probably caused by a dry solder in the vertical beam circuitry, but I cannot find a circuit board labeled with anything similar. I have found the audio circuit, etc., but no vertical beam.

Does anyone know the approximate location, or the circuit board label of this so I can begin to look for loose resistors and such? If I could get a location with a reference point of looking in the back of my TV: back right, upper left, on the back of the picture tube, etc.

Thanks.

You know, those 2" by 2" by 3/4" (WAGNER hockey puck) adjustable solid state timers? How do they work? Are they a capacitive resister? Sorry, I'm not much on electronic theory. Are they susceptable to voltage/current surge? Magnetic flux? Will that screw them up so they might instantly reset or infinite time out? I've got one in my furnace circuit, and I think that when the high voltage transformer for spark is energized it messes with the timer and I end up having to get them replaced every so often as they intermittantly fail.
Thanx!

You know, those 2" by 2" by 3/4" (WAGNER hockey puck) adjustable solid state timers? Sorry, I'm not much on electronic theory. Are they susceptable to voltage/current surge? Magnetic flux? Will that screw them up so they might instantly reset or infinite time out? I've got one in my furnace circuit, and I think that when the high voltage transformer for spark is energized it messes with the timer (and I end up having to get them replaced every so often as they intermittantly fail).
Thanx!