Electronic Valve connection help! I have three things, one is a relay, another one is a limit switch, and the?
third is an "electronic valve". I’ve connected everything to a 110 V outlet. I’ve tested the circuit with a bulb, and it works perfectly, behavior as desired. Now, I get this electronic valve, which is normally closed, but when I connect it to the circuit, it doesn’t open. There are several things I quite don’t understand. The valve says it takes 110 VAC, 8,5 VA and 76ma. Now, maybe I’m applying too much current? I suppose the current is limited by the load and the wire size, I’m using a thickness of what, 5 needles joined together (~~)… So basically I need assistance determining how to operate the valve given those specs, or knowledge if I’m not doing things correctly. Maybe I need the water pressure on the valve for it to work? Can I apply the 110 V line directly? Thanks..
Ok, thanks for that answer, yes its a solenoid valve, 3/4. I’ve hooked a bulb in parallel, and the bulb lights up. Actually the valve does open, but I get a trickle of water, instead of the whole flow. I’m using this valve to open a stationary water tank. For my test the pressure is only two gallons of water, maybe these are designed for high pressure? I’ve applied it directly and I only get a trickle of water as well. Also the valve has no indication on which is negative or positive, I guess it doesn’t matter/
yes the click is there, the valve is opening, but just a trickle of water..
I applied a hose at the supplying end of the valve and I did get much water coming out, although it still has been opened entirely; I seems it a pressure matter then, or my valve is not the best.
Tagged with: electronic valve • needles • ok thanks • solenoid • solenoid valve • trickle • v line • water pressure • water tank
Filed under: Open Electronic Circuit
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This is one of those questions which prompts a request for a wiring diagram so that we can see exactly what you have done.
If the test lamp is operating and you replace it with the valve but the valve does not open, the problem will depend on the type of valve. Is the valve a solenoid valve or a motor driven valve. You have mentioned a limit switch. This makes me suspect that you might have a motor driven valve. If this is the case and the valve’s gate is now OPEN, nothing will happen unless you close the valve. If the valve is a solenoid valve, the armature might be jammed in the barrel. To test for this, connect the valve,and tap the valve barrel with a big screwdriver. If the armature is slightly stuck, this tapping might free it. The other problem might be that the operating coil had developed an open circuit. To test for this, disconnect the valve from the 110 V supply and test the resistance of the coil with a multimeter. WARNING: If you are not trained to be messing around with the mains supply, you must be very careful if you are to avoid electric shock or burns. Make sure that you unplug the whole set-up from the wall socket, before touching anything.
ADDITIONAL ANSWER: In light of the additional information that you have provided, I am now able to tell you that valves do have a pressure rating but this is usually the maximum pressure at which the valve will not "leak" when closed. If your valve is a washing machine water valve, it is designed to deliver water at the standard water mains pressure (which is fairly high). Since you are using it to drain a tank with a "low head", the rate of flow will be low compared to what it would be when used in a washing machine. Furthermore, the "seat plunger" might not be rising fully — this would limit the rate of flow.
I gather this is not a vacuum tube or valve, but a solenoid operated electric valve.
If it’s rated at 110/120 VAC and you apply 110/120 VAC to it, it should operate. The current will be determined by the impedance of the solenoid, and at these currents, wire size is irrelevant, anything #20 or larger would be OK.
Yes, apply the 110 directly to the valve (be careful!) to see if it functions. If it does, the problem is in your circuit.
You need to give us more details on the circuit and how the switch is connected, and what kind of switch it is.
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The current through the valve coil is limited by the winding resistance. It needs 110V across it to operate, and your circuit needs to be able to supply 75mA. If your circuit operates a bulb, which I’m assuming is rated at 40W or above, then it should operate the valve.
You should hear a click at least. If you connect it directly to 110V AC it should operate.
My next move would be to measure the coil resistance, it should be about 1500 ohms.