The electronic circuits/nucleus of the computer which perform the analytical, computational and logical functions occuring durring the work session..?

The flashing underscore on the screen where the next data will be displayed..?

The data entry point on the display screen which indicates to the suer the computer is ready to accept commands..?

A collection of characters of information..?

the short term memory used for storing and retrieving data while working on the computer..?

The process of entering data into the computer from storage or the keyboard..?

The storage area that holds the info for/during processing by the CPU..?

A list of options displayed on the screen. The user causes the computer to perform tasks by keying or selecting specific items..?

Programmable keys that perform different operations as assigned by the software programmer..?

The process of protecting stored data by covering the notch or opening the tab to ensure against the accidental erasure of information on the diskette..?

I’m looking for an electronic lock w/ keypad. I’m looking for something to open/close and electronic circuit (like to turn on/off a light bulb). I’ve searched all over the internet, only finding electronic DOOR locks (I don’t want to use these). I was hoping to find one that has 12 keys (0-9, #, Ӿ), an LED/LCD display (to show keys hit, open/close, or anything else), and 3 LED’s (they would be to indicate ELECTRICITY FLOWING, CORRECT, INCORRECT). Anyone know where I could find something like this? Thanks!

My brother has been attempting to launch his model rocket. However nothing seems to be happening. The engines are Estes C6-3 and are from a newly opened packet.

The igniter is touching the propellant, as far in as it will go, and the wires aren’t touching, so were pretty sure it’s not short-circuiting. We hold the key in the electronic igniter box for five seconds while the light glows and then hit the launch button. But nothing happens.

We have replaced the igniters and the engine several times.

The only thing I can think that is affecting it is the cold weather, and the engines are a few years old. What are we doing wrong?

My trusty old 60GB Zen Vision M seems to have died for the last time. For several years I’ve been dropping it at least once a month, and it held up great. Once in a while it’d start skipping in a video and I’d open it up, reinsert the hard drive ribbon, and voila! Good as new (minus a few scratches). But this last time it gave me a firmware error message, and even after reloading the firmware it still wouldn’t work. I tried my usual fix, but nada. So I tried something else and somehow in all this the female battery connector on the circuit board broke off. I tried using glue (it was late, I was tired, and had no soldering iron…Idiotic, I know…), but while it worked for a few minutes, it broke off when I closed the thing up again, and I don’t know how to get the glue off (Loctite Super Glue) so that I can try soldering it back in place. If you know how to get superglue off electronic parts PLEASE let me know. Otherwise, where can I get just the connectors?

PS how can I anonymously post a picture of the part online?
PPS It’s a Li-Ion battery, charged the same way as an iPod.
Here are pics of the parts, f=female part, m=male; sorry, the photos are not great quality..

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/8/0/8/8088432/circuitboard.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/4/7/3/4735930/f1.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/9/4/3/9433512/f2.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/6/9/0/6903238/f3.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/3/7/4/3744156/f4.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/4/0/2/4029836/f5.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/2/3/7/237101/m1.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/6/4/9/6495692/m2.JPG

http://willhostforfood.com/files4/1/8/3/1832487/m3.JPG

Every radio, computer, game console, and other electronic gizmo I’ve opened up and looked within has a green circuit board. I’ve seen circuit boards of other colors after conducting an image search on a search engine, but that brings up the question why they are mostly green to begin with.
The only answer I can come up with is that perhaps the green ones are specifically for consumer electronics, and circuit boards of a different color are for the armed forces, or specialty purposes such as satellites or space shuttles. Thanks ahead of time for any input.

I’ve got an Amana 93HQ furnace, a Goodman CKL36-1L AC unit, and a Robertshaw (unk model) digital thermostat. All are about 2-3 years old.

Several days ago, we lost power to my house during an electrical storm. The power was off for several hours. Eventually, the utility company replaced the (ancient) transformer and restored power. I do not know what else they may have done, as I was at work when power was restored. I know a loud lightning strike woke me, but I do not see any evidence of an actual strike at the house.

Upon returning home, I found that my DSL modem, my garage door opener motor, and my digital thermostat were not functioning. All other electronic devices seem fine (TV, Wii, etc).

The modem power supply had been humming for a while, and my electrician friend said that garage door motors seem to be sensitive to the surge after a transformer hookup. Particularly if they hooked the house to the transformer, and -then- hooked the transformer to the grid. He said this seems to create issues more often than hooking the transformer to the line, and then the house to the transformer. I have no idea how things were connected, obviously.

Upon looking into the thermostat issue, I found that the 3A fuse on my furnace board was blown. Replace, blows again. With some trial and error, I found that the circuit is -fine- in the heat, or fan-only settings. It’s only when the thermostat tries to activate the AC that an issue occurs. Discussion with an HVAC acquaintance of mine led me to think it may be the contactor.

I pulled the access cover from my AC unit, and manually pushed the contactor…everything seems to work normally. Fan spins, I can hear the compressor fire up, etc. Try to activate from the thermostat, though, and the 3A fuse blows. I also pulled the low-voltage wires at the furnace board (wires which run out to contactor on AC unit). When this is done, the thermostat can be switched to "Cool" without issue. Obviously the AC unit doesn’t engage, but no fuses blow.

Ideas? Could the surge of power (after transformer replacement) have hosed the coil in the contactor? Is there a way to test this, prior to replacing the contactor? Is there a way to get 24V power to the contactor (to see if it engages) without tripping the fuse on the furnace board?

Other thoughs, suggestions, or advice?

I’m hoping someone can give me a name for this type of part, so I can locate one at Radio Shack or some other electronics store.

I’m building a project that requires an automatic switch of sorts. This will reside within an electric circuit that carries 12 volts DC.

1.When power is supplied to the circuit, the device will allow current to flow normally for a brief time (around 10 seconds or so).

2.After this delay, the device will automatically open the circuit, and keep it open as long as there is current available

3.When circuit is no longer available the switch will close itself again.

Was that clear?
Thanks
More specifically – This is something I want to wire into an annoying but important warning buzzer in my vehicle. Instead of the warning buzzer wailing away incessantly, I want it to STFU after a few seconds of activation.

third is an "electronic valve". I’ve connected everything to a 110 V outlet. I’ve tested the circuit with a bulb, and it works perfectly, behavior as desired. Now, I get this electronic valve, which is normally closed, but when I connect it to the circuit, it doesn’t open. There are several things I quite don’t understand. The valve says it takes 110 VAC, 8,5 VA and 76ma. Now, maybe I’m applying too much current? I suppose the current is limited by the load and the wire size, I’m using a thickness of what, 5 needles joined together (~~)… So basically I need assistance determining how to operate the valve given those specs, or knowledge if I’m not doing things correctly. Maybe I need the water pressure on the valve for it to work? Can I apply the 110 V line directly? Thanks..
Ok, thanks for that answer, yes its a solenoid valve, 3/4. I’ve hooked a bulb in parallel, and the bulb lights up. Actually the valve does open, but I get a trickle of water, instead of the whole flow. I’m using this valve to open a stationary water tank. For my test the pressure is only two gallons of water, maybe these are designed for high pressure? I’ve applied it directly and I only get a trickle of water as well. Also the valve has no indication on which is negative or positive, I guess it doesn’t matter/
yes the click is there, the valve is opening, but just a trickle of water..
I applied a hose at the supplying end of the valve and I did get much water coming out, although it still has been opened entirely; I seems it a pressure matter then, or my valve is not the best.

It’s a Katana by Sanyo.
Image here: http://www.analytica1st.com/analytica1st/img/sanyo_katana.gif

Right away, i took the battery out. Is the battery the problem? Did the water short-circuit it? Will it ever work again?

I absorbed the water behind the main display screen (the one you see upon opening the phone), but could not get to the tiny screen on the front. There are still a few droplets of water in there. I also opened the back where the battery goes to air that out; I exposed the phone to a fan to try and dry the water. I don’t know if any of this will do any good.
My phone does not have a sim card. Will all my pictures, numbers, and texts be lost forever? I guess i can’t ever get it back.

What would happen if i reassembled my phone and then plugged it into the charger? Would it fry the phone? > <ahhh
I had…important things on there…
Any help is appreciated…
R.I.P. my portable electronic friend of over 2 good years….
(the guys at the pool were laughing at me…) :<